Inconceivable

It is nearing the end of our time in Emerald Isle. As we begin to reminisce on what all we have done, we are also, strategically planning to find time to do what we still want to do.

It was our last full weekend in Ireland and a three-day trip to the Southern Ireland would cross off Galway, Killarney, Cork, Kylemore Abbey, Blarney Castle, Cliffs of Mohr and much more. The 7 a.m. morning came with clouds of rain and we ran through the city to catch our Paddywagon bus. Making it with enough time to grab a bit of complementary toast, it would not be long before we explored the antique castles and natural attractions that are housed in Southern Ireland.

The most anticipated site to visit for me and my fellow travelers was the Cliffs of Mohr. Aside from being featured as the Cliffs of Insanity in the 1987 film the Princess Bride, the cliffs hold their own fame attracting nearly one million visitors in 2006. Not only had tour guides and films boosted about the scenic site but word of mouth from fellow students and Irish locals, confirmed the appeal of the cliffs.

Cliffs of Mohr in County Clare

The wind blew fierce and pedestrians hats flew in the air and clutched onto hand rails when nearing the edges of the cliffs.  The cliffs in the south region is a popular risky trail that bears a sign before entering stating its legal boundaries. Of course this does not play a factor to us young and fearless and off to the south region we went.

Me at the Cliffs of Mohr South Region 

As I dangled my feet precariously off the edge of the cliffs, I then understand the majestic appeal of the cliffs. I explored the grounds, took pictures and enjoyed the cool ocean breeze. The Cliffs of Mohr definitely toped my favorites list.

Interview with a Virginia Bailey, a fellow traveler, she mentions the underdog nature of Ireland. “Its kind of an out of the way countries that no one really talks about in Europe” Virginia Bailey said. “But I always wanted to go.” 

The beauty of the cliffs is not done justice by photos or postcards, and I find this true of Ireland as a country. There is an indescribable appeal to this country that can only be experienced.

Me on the edge of the cliffs

As I near the end of my journey in Ireland I leave taking away mental snapshots and memories that match all the cliché tag lines of travel brochure. I leave a country that successfully heightened all my senses.

A black taxi ride

Planning our free time in Ireland had come down to a must-do list. This list was complied from tourist guides and most importantly word of mouth. We had booked our three-day weekend tour to Galway and decided to take our short two-day weekend to explore Belfast in Northern Ireland.

To relieve the stress of planning the trip, a group of seven of us, booked the one day trip to Belfast with the PaddyWagon Tours.

The bus left Dublin at 8 a.m. and the suns beams warmed the atmosphere with a promise of good weather. Our driver and guide, Jerry, was a petite old man with round blue eyes. He looked up from his rearview mirror to ask us why we wanted to travel to Belfast. 

Loyalist mural seen upon entering
the city of Belfast. 

We let him know that it had been recommended and he repeated the warnings of the political nature of the city. In fact, we had been forewarned of the political unrest in recent times of Northern Ireland, known as the troubles, yet it had not deterred us from wanted to visit.

Arriving to Belfast we were greeted by a mural that read “ You are now entering Loyalist Sandy Row Heartland of South Belfast Ulster-Freedom Fighters,” and a masked man with an AK47 in hand painted in the corner. I was definitely surprised and looking at my fellow travelers bulging eyes confirmed that they too felt the same.

My signature and quote
on the Peace Wall that separates
the protestant and catholic
neighborhoods in Belfast.

Arriving into the city, our previously scheduled Black Taxi Tour was soon to arrive. The infamous Black Taxi Tour in Belfast is a political tour showcasing the Murals of the Shankill and Falls roads and a view of the peace walls that separate the streets of Belfast.

Ken Harper, our tour guide and driver, had white peppered hair and a thick Irish accent that matched his pale blue eyes. Although he had the gift of gab, as the Irish do, his tone was somber. This soon was explained by the stories he told and sad troubles of Belfast.

 Ken Harper, Black Taxi Tour guide explaining the murals in Shankill Road in the protestant area of Belfast, Ireland. 

The history of the Catholic and Protestant conflict, was hard for me to truly grasp. As an American our history is filled with civil unrest of race, gender and ideals. It  was hard to understand how Catholics and Protestants can even know who is on what side, and Ken admitted that based on appearance alone they couldn’t. The recent dates that were painted on the murals made the crisis loom in the air.

After the tour, there was a staleness in the air. We walked around the city locating Mourne Seafood Bar, which Jerry had recommended to us. As I walked around taking in my surrounding I recognized that the locals in Belfast looked different than Dubliners. They had English features and style in a way that is hard to describe. Ken’s words rung in my ear, and I recalled his statement that loyalist, or the Protestants, did not wish to hold their Irish roots.

Although we enjoyed a pleasant seafood meal, it did not settle in a way we had become accustomed to. The troubles of Northern Ireland are not yet resolved and although this was not the usual tourist visit, it was thought-provoking  and a taste of reality. As a foreigner in a country and as a tourist in Ireland, it is easy to get lost in the scenic beauty and bustling city centers filled with music and pints, but I feel the trip was crucial to get an all encompassing look at the country of Ireland. 

Food, Music and Rain

My first step into the street’s of Ireland was greeted by a cool breeze. I looked up and the grey blue sky showed promise of rain. Accompanied by two fellow study abroad students from the University of Texas at Austin and our professor Dave Junker; we went into city center of Dublin with a mission to eat and explore our new home for the next month.

The Boar's Head a traditional Irish pub

For lunch we roamed through the cobblestone roads of the city center till we came across an authentic looking Irish pub called The Boars Head, located just north of the Liffey river, on Capel Street in the Dublin's market area. 

In the center of the pub where a group of men who’s loud laughter filled the spaces between the bar and the tables, muffling the background music of current American singer Rihanna. They joked amongst each other about women, sports and beer.

The bartender lead our foursome to a table in the corner and after the greeting and a round of genuine Irish beer, the group of men now resembled a scene straight out of a movie. Much to my amazement this was not a movie but rather my very own first hand observations of Ireland.

Finally I had arrived, after three plane rides that had left me a little jet lagged, I was in Ireland.

Oliver St John Gogarty Pub located in Templar Bar
in Dublin, Ireland.

After lunch, we were sprinkled with rain as we walked around Temple Bar. Violin strings filled our ears followed by an accented folk chant. We located the music and slipped into Oliver St John Gogarty Pub.

The atmosphere made you smile and laugh out loud. The people were happy, frolicking around and singing Irish folk songs in unison. I clapped along falling deep into the environment.

The video is a short clip I took while inside Grogans Pub, please excuse the poor quality of my camera but the music and environment are my first hand experience.   

Within my first day the Irish had lived up to my preconceived notions and I anticipate much more hospitality and friendships from them.